How To Recycle Your Used Candles

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How to Make Tealights

It’s a simple three step process: Pour, Set, and Re-Pour

For tealights, you may pour at any time after the wax is melted; no specific wax temperature is required. My favored method for all candles is to wait to pour until I can just begin to see the wax solidifying (congealing) on the inside surface of the pour can. You need a spouted container to pour tealights. You can also use a wood stirring stick or a chopstick for added pouring control to reduce dribbles.

Pour: There are two methods of making the first pour for tealights, Method A is to fill the tealight cup to the rim, and Method B is to fill the tealight cup ¾ full. The choice is yours. Be sure to save about 20% of your melted wax for the second pour you will make after the candles set.

Set: After making the first pour of wax into the tealight cups, let the tealights stand undisturbed while the wax shrinks and they cool completely. It generally takes a tealight anywhere from half an hour to an hour and a half to cool completely and shrink as much as it is going too. As the tealights cool, the wax shrinks creating a depression in the center around the wick.

Re-Pour: Re-pour, referred to by candle makers as the “second pour”, happens after the wax in the tealight cups has cooled completely. To make the second pour, re-heat the remaining wax and pour it into the depression of the cooled wax in each tealight cup. Let stand another half hour or so to cool completely.

When the tealight has completely cooled, that is it! You are finished with your tealight!

How to Make Votives

Making votives is almost identical to making tealights, but with a couple added twists.

For Votives, you should let the wax cool down to around 160 to 180 degrees F, or cooler, before pouring. My favored method for votives, and all candles, is to wait to pour until I can just begin to see the wax solidifying (congealing) on the inside surface of the melting pot. You need a spouted container to pour votives. You can also use a wood stirring stick or a chopstick for added pouring control to reduce dribbles.

To check temperature of wax, immerse thermometer in wax, taking care not to let it touch the bottom of the melting pot.

Pour: Fill the votive mold up to the rim with wax. Be sure to save about 20% of your melted wax for the second pour you will make after the candles set.

1st pour for a votive candle with wick placed before pouring the wax.

Using the 2nd method for votive mold prep, you don’t place the wick until after the first pour.

Set: After making the first pour of wax into the votive molds, let the votives stand undisturbed while the wax shrinks and they cool completely. It generally takes a votive about an hour to an hour and a half (my experience is usually no longer than 2 hours, although some people report cool times of up to 4 hours) for the wax in the mold to cool and shrink. As the votive cools in the mold, the wax shrinks creating a depression in the center around the wick.

Re-Pour: Re-pour, referred to by candle makers as the “second pour”, happens after the wax in the votive candle mold has cooled completely. The 2nd pour of a votive candle fills the depression in the center of the candle where the wax has shrunk. To make the second pour for a votive candle, re-heat the remaining wax and pour it into the depression of the cooled wax in the votive candle mold.

NOTE: Some people like the re-pour wax temperature to be about 10 to 15 degrees hotter than the temperature of the initial pour wax. This is a matter of style and although it is reported by some that this method aids adhesion of the 2nd pour wax to the first pour wax, it is completely optional. Beginning votive candle makers need not worry over this, as all the votives will end up in a votive candle holder and, as votive candles do, liquefying as they burn.

When making the second pour, fill the votive mold up to the rim, and just a bit higher, taking care not to fill it so much that wax dribbles over the edge.

The correct level of wax for the 2nd pour of a votive creates the slight lip at the top of a votive.

Wait another hour or so for the candle to completely cool in the votive mold, and then remove the votive from the mold. Before burning the candle, trim the wick to 1/2 " (our pre-tabbed votive wicks generally run a little long, so you will likely need to trim the wick down to 1/2 "before burning your new votive)

Here are some helpful tips for getting a votive out of a votive candle mold:

  • If you have used silicone mold release spray, and the candle is completely cool, you should only have to turn the votive mold upside down and shake it a little to get the candle to fall right out into your hand

  • If you didn’t use silicone mold release spray, try just turning it over and shaking it. If it doesn’t come out into your hand easily, try twisting the candle in the mold to loosen it.

  • If that does not work, then drop the candle-filled votive mold into a large glass of warm water and leave it alone. It will eventually be set free by the water and float to the surface.

    That is it, you are finished making your votive candle!

    Remember:

  • Never burn a candle unattended

  • Votives need to be burned on votive holders

  • Tealights can be burned in tealight holders to protect your wood and other fine surfaces

    One last useful hint:

    Before you burn your new votives, put a little bit of water and a couple drops of liquid dish soap in the bottom of the holder. When the votive is finished burning, the wax shell will pop out easily, so you can recycle it again!





  • See Also

    Votives & Tealights
    Floating Tealights
    Votives
    Beeswax Votives
    Unscented Votives
    Scented Votives
    Sculpture Candles
    Birthday Candles
    Floating Candles
    Vigil Candles
    Wedding Candles
    Wedding Candles

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